In early summer, managed to take a fascinating journey through Georgia. We visited one of the most beautiful corners of her - of Svaneti. All the stories, what happened to us, of course, can not describe. Georgians - unusual and interesting people who love to talk. There were so many memorable dialogues that even after such a short trip you could write a book with stories. But first things first...
Kutaisi Airport is quite small, the day arrives there only a few flights. And to each of them are prepared - at passport control you'll be greeted in the Ukrainian language, and at the door will be waiting for a hungry crowd of taxi drivers willing to drive to anywhere in Georgia ...
Take a taxi, we did not want to, so to Kutaisi traveled in dilapidated bus, which, however, is less than 100 km / h do not like driving. Company we have made mega-gay tourists from Poland. The mood is set immediately trip. They wondered around around .... which only cost the phrase: "Wow, look, a black Volga drove like a movie!"
About Kutaisi nothing to say, we were just at the bus station ... but khachapuri excellent! Cheap, great cheese and then do not regret. And one more amenity - Vodicka Borjomi, exactly 2 times cheaper than ours.
The next destination was the town of Zugdidi, whose name I could not remember a few days ... Then we had to transfer to a bus to Mestia.
Georgian drivers - a special story. Each drive you want! The feeling that someone there is a bus, that rules the world, well, or just not a curse. But all is distributed - anyone for whom the plan is to go and where. But it was important to go cheaper, so for an hour managed to communicate with almost every driver, and everyone was ready to take us, but everyone does not like the fact that each of us wants to drive! We ourselves have already confused! And then as the movie .... Void attracts all bus drivers are going in a circle in the center and begin to rapidly sort things out .... After 5 minutes, one of them came up to us and says, "Let's go!" At last...
The road to Mestia complex ... everyone said to go at least three hours, but added - if nothing happens. It happened immediately. Struck the wheel ..
A mountain ahead already so attracted ...
In less than an hour, the adventure continued. The driver stopped at the cafe and said - a break of 15 minutes, which quietly grown into one and a half hours. During this time we ourselves had dinner. If you like sharp little - be sure to try kubdari, tortillas with meat and spices inside! Very tasty! But, unfortunately, in all the places do differently.
While we ate, the driver and his partner had to drink two to three liters of beer. As we learned more, then it is in order ... or just that it was not afraid to go down this road! Path in place - it is more than 100 km of mountain serpentine. All the way you look in the window with his mouth open. The gorge, whose bottom is not even seen the mountain river, the beautiful lake, the old tunnels from the ceiling and on the walls of which run streams. Some sections of the road only cleared after the next collapse. And all this at great speed!
Georgian cows, as well as drivers deserve a separate story. The first sleep, or go to razvalochku right in the center of the road, and are not going to move even a centimeter, while the latter did not even think to slow down and rush past them at high speed ... a real slalom turns.
Getting acquainted with the local fauna
In general, in a place we arrived only at midnight. First, the driver wanted us to stay at his friends. But we explained that we wanted to sleep in a tent, and he took us out of town. We arrived at some place ... went to look around - around a pile of garbage, no good ... and talk to the driver - not like some dump. He replied - no question, go to the next place! It is difficult to imagine that our bus driver drove tourists at night is not clear where in the country until they choose a suitable location for an overnight stay. This time we stopped somewhere very far away, found a suitable clearing, thanked the driver, set up tents and went to bed. To wake up in the morning and admire the beauty of the place in which spent the night! Ears Ushba (4690 m), the favorite of the climbers in the first rays of dawn!
greeted the dawn - it is a thrill!
Our campground flowered:
Gulls - first thing in the morning!
The beautiful tree ... from all sides of his perefotografirovat.
In the afternoon went for a walk in the city ... look at where we are at all. Here hostel in Georgian, chickens running around, all as it should
place - a modern tourist center of Svaneti. This town is situated at an altitude of over 1,400 meters above sea level. Construction is a serious pace. Some couple of years, and there are expensive hotels and restaurants. Already there is even its own airport. In Georgia thoroughly undertook for the development of tourism. And it is already affecting prices.
center field. Slightly to the left, in a small park, there is a source with a delicious mineral water! So the question of how to pay for the water did not stand at all.
Everything is built in the same style, it looks nice.
The city cows roam.
A modern bridge.
A little further - already rural landscapes:
Famous Svan towers - symbol of Svaneti. Nowhere in the world is no longer even an analogue of this unique defensive structures. This tower was built next to every home and served as a refuge for families in the event of war.
Labyrinths of old streets.
On that day, we were going up to the lake Koruldi located at an altitude of 2,740 m, but as a very long time and were going to come out only in the afternoon, and set the height of 1300 m and descent back just for the evening -. This robust design. The road immediately goes up steeply. Some 10 minutes and the place is already far below.
Start ascent accompanied by flowering daisies ... beauty around
But the higher - the more beautiful and more beautiful ...
Mountain pastures ... kicks Ladybugs
Light pleasantly pleased ...
On the neighboring mountain rivers flow ... fascinating, in Crimea this will not be seen.
The last tree on our way. Then only the hills, hills, hills ...
At this altitude, there are barns. When you think that people come here every day to get up. And they used to. Shepherd with two cows, we could not even catch up on the way down!
Here, you can make films
rose to snow. Lake, formed from the meltwater
A beautifully swept horses
Snow cap on the left - live it looks amazing!
Height - 2700. Then it became quite cold and snow, the sun was setting, and the wind rose. We waited a long and difficult descent
On the second night in Mestia we have a guard - Ball. In the evening he wound circles on the trails around the camp and in the morning wanted to get into the tent to hide from the sun
Say goodbye to the ball, and moved on. The aim of this day was to climb to the pass and down into the next valley, where to stay for the night
have views inspire and add strength, even with heavy backpacks becomes easy to go
A break after a couple of hours of walking, swimming in a mountain stream
After the river trail steeply up ... hard, but quickly
Even some half an hour, and we are at the pass! 1900 m. Photo for memory ... how beautifully around!
Top opened view of the next valley. Along the river stretch to the horizon village. Our destination - the village Jabeshi - the latest, here and really can not see
The area is already markedly different. Gets a lot of old or abandoned buildings, anything modern, like in place, there is no
How many Svan towers have already passed, but did not see what's inside. We decided to fix it
The tower seemed deserted, and there was nobody around. We climbed inside. Oh, how staggered, this staircase
The next task - to squeeze into the hole. And then - three floors of the same ladders only in the dark
Inside - nothing interesting. Only small windows at floor level. Eugene bored guards backpacks
to move on. We have to cross water streams often flowing from the snowfields ... Over time you get used to that, for these places - it's just a small stream
We got to the great river, which decided to stay the night
How not to swim after a long journey. To say that the water is cold - to say nothing ... it's just ... the ice flow, though it seems not very strong, but it lays down immediately.
Suddenly, the wind got up and the weather began to deteriorate
The clouds grew blacker and blacker.
And somewhere on the horizon was rain.
But this lucky day, to us, he never made it ... Waiting for dinner
Early morning ... Tent with defensive structures. Precautions - from a nearby slope periodically rolled stones, not small
According to the tradition - standing flowered. Left - barberry, which was a lot of dried berries. And so we ate rice and then cooked them. Vkusnuypirogek.
In the sun in the day and did not expect ... really sucked all
And then the fog down the mountain.
But an hour passed, and it was like this
Quickly reached Jabeshi and went to explore the surrounding area.
Towards came a grandfather
Jabeshi situated at an altitude of 1600 m. Most of the year there is snow, so the sled used in the summer.
This river grandpa jumped in the best traditions of Sergei Bubka - leaned on a stick and just flew ... We were shocked ... On the sled he drove potatoes. One thing is accidentally dropped, a huge ... quickly took advantage of this, so to vegetables there tight -.. The next day cooked soup.
The vehicles have hard times ... Many of them beaten and even without bumpers - this is unnecessary on such roads
We went to the supermarket!
For a long time knocking at the door, while on the horizon there was Aunt Clara did not open all the locks and grilles
In this day decided to take a short break and stayed at the guest house. With his offer a beautiful view of Tetnuld (4869 m)
Half of the group was left to rest, and we went for a walk to a nearby hill, where was to open a beautiful view of the glacier.
The picturesque mountain trail runs along the rocky canyon Tviberi River. Pine grows directly out of stone!
And soon we opened this kind of .... Breathing stops, when for the first time you see the glacier, even from a distance ...
Small house, as it turned out later - the border guards. Behind these tops have Kabardino-Balkaria.
The border guards were very good-natured! they miss here
They say: "Come, - vodka, beer, chacha - whatever you want"
So a house looks from the inside. One of the guards quickly began to wear shoes - walk and wanted to show us a nice place
This place turned out to be snowfield. Beauty.
I asked the border guards - could you take a picture of the three of us, and he said - is not a question, and stood beside the boys. It was awkward to explain that I did not mean it at all, so here's a photo with a border guard
Brooks running down from the mountains, the water flows directly beneath the snow.
Peter decided to recall skiing skills
time to rest and back
A valley in the sunset light ... Stunning ...
for an hour, and we're at the bottom, content campaign
Trekking poles - an indispensable thing here. Try it once and it is hard to refuse ... a huge reduction in the load on the knees during descents, which are often easier climbs. And just two more points of support on the climbs, crossing rivers, slippery sections, and so on. D.
This house - mill. Under it flows a trickle and makes spinning all the mechanisms inside.
Here we are. The house is already waiting for us a delicious dinner prepared by the hosts.