Journey to Khartoum, Sudan's capital
Khartoum is considered one of the worst cities in the world in terms of political stability, law enforcement, education and the environment. Yes, and the Sudan is not the best place for the earth. For example, in the ranking of peacefulness It occupies the third place from the end, behind only Somalia and Afghanistan.
I do not know what's up with the political situation and the environment, but if there was a rating of countries and cities by the number of improperly parked cars, Khartoum would take first place. While there, the second on the first Moscow. Let's see what else is going on in reality.
We take off from Juba, South Sudan, and fly to the North in the main Sudan. I can say that despite the fact that the country is living in the Middle Ages, for the white set relatively tolerable conditions. There are normal hotel. Well, as normal ... as we have in Anapa about 10 years ago. That is, one can live. There are excellent restaurants. Just good European restaurants. Of course, in all these places let local closed, but white in Juba live tolerably well. There are a lot of white - in the UN mission deployed.
A Farewell to Juba! Goodbye, Blue Nile! Farewell, young African state, South Sudan!
We fly north ... under the wing of the plane about something sings ... Red Sea desert.
We fly to the Sudanese capital, Khartoum. Khartoum - Sudan's official capital. Here we must immediately make it clear that the city is located at the confluence of White and Blue Niles, in the immediate vicinity is the country's largest city Omdurman and Bahri. In fact, this is a big six millionth city. I will not divide the city into 3 parts, so as not to confuse the reader. So when I write from Khartoum, I mean agglomeration.
City does not impress from the height of ...
The carbon market.
The industrial zone. The country's industry is poorly developed, live at the expense of oil.
As you can see, there is only the asphalt on the main streets. The city is very dusty and dirty.
The Khartoum reminds Moscow? Exactly! There are also parking problems. The whole town is just littered with avtohlama. People put their cars where they want.
Sudan - Islamic state, because of this, there were problems with the south, who did not want to live under Sharia law and eventually separated. 70% of the population are Arabs.
City quite wealthy by African standards. After Somalia and South Sudan in general it seems that you're in a paradise.
Home of the first president.
The pedestrian infrastructure.
On the sidewalk comfortable here heard.
With the move, especially in the old center - complete disaster. No markings, no rules, just some chaos.
As a taxi used tuk-tuks. Despite the fact that the city is very large, there is no normal public transport.
On the market are selling the skins of crocodiles! Present. Horror easy.
In a fashion slippers with fur.
The modern architecture of Khartoum ...
The coolest city hotel, built in 2008, Gaddafi. It is called the local "Egg Gaddafi."
In the evening, take a boat ride and a meal on the Nile. In Sudan, all is very strict with freedom. Do not remove the bridges, government buildings, any objects that may seem strategic. No freedom of photography. Everywhere security officers in plain clothes, for all of the following, all watching and listening. Right dense scoop. In Sudan banned alcohol. Of course, the black market is theoretically possible to buy, but the locals do not run the risk to them of a serious punishment. On arrival all the searching and alcohol poured. For trying to bring alcohol into the country relies penalty may even deploy and are not empty.
In Khartoum, very hot. Now the day in the sun more than 40 degrees. Khartoum is considered one of the hottest cities in the world, the average annual temperature is 30 ° C. Since ancient times, there is a good tradition to leave jugs of drinking water in the streets. Until now, almost every street corner there are here such pitchers, and in each there is water.
In the evenings the whole town is going to promenade and admire the Nile.
And here sometimes there are great dust storms.
from the past meets the present Sudan.
In Sudan, a very strange mode. For example, the country's president, Omar al-Bashir, according to the US magazine "Parade", in 2005 ranked first in the top ten worst dictators of our time. The International Criminal Court in 2009 even issued an arrest warrant for al-Bashir (the first time in history the incumbent). He is accused of crimes against humanity (murder, extermination, forcible transfer, torture, rape) and war crimes (intentional use of force against civilians, looting). Speaking at the meeting, al-Bashir expressed his attitude: "They can take your order - and eat it!". Despite the order al-Bashir continues to travel freely in foreign countries, and no one was arrested.
Like any normal dictator's regime Al-Bashir is the main enemy. Guess who? USA! SURPRISE! Feeling powerless, finely States pakostnichayut Sudan. For example, in 1998 the US bombed a pharmaceutical factory in Khartoum, allegedly for the sake of the fight against terrorism. Sudanese still not regained her all to see what the Americans are bad.
States imposed sanctions against Sudan, and he does not sell anything. This creates a big problem, for example, to the Sudanese aviation. To buy spare parts for aircraft, constantly having to look left supply schemes. The local airline was only one passenger aircraft. The rest of the technique of buying from Russia. But such a message meets the users who want to take advantage of some US sites, such as Google Analytics:
"A connection has been established between your current IP address and country sanctioned by the U.S. government. For more information, see //www.ustreas.gov/offices/enforcement/ofac/."
Needless Sudanese government responded also blocked some sites ... such as VKontakte.
In the country itself a terrible corruption, does not open the door without any one dollar, and the police beat people with sticks for violations. The dollar, by the way, better to change the black market, the official rate of above 3 times! In general, not everything went smoothly in the Kingdom of Sudan. Let's go for a walk!
Khartoum Airport is located right in the city, among the houses.
Almost all Russian planes, which is nice, the US can not buy.
Helicopters also use our.
Airport securely guarded. The entire military base is on the territory with a bunch of guns and anti-aircraft guns.
At the landfill in Khartoum lying our Tu-134. Since 1976, it was Aeroflot's board, and then he moved to a Chechen. During the war in Chechnya is not damaged in the 1994-96 year. What fate he found himself in a landfill in Sudan - no one knows.
Another landfill exhibits.
Someone threw engine.
This brand new 76 stand. Entourage.
In general, the second day in the city turned out to be superfluous. Sooovsem do here is nothing.
The city looks like. Monotonous sand mass, and 42 on the street.
Stadium building. Wind raises dust.
A local television station.
In the houses of all communications output at the facade.
The old center of Khartoum. From here it all began.
Average statistical dwelling.
A local resident.
The country is very religious. In markets and in places where people are standing here are jugs with water for washing, during prayer. Praying on the ground, spreading mats. All pray.
Fish ranks. Fish in baskets just keep in the heat. The stench is worth terrible. No ice and no cooling.
But potatoes excellent.
Under the bridge of life boils.
As I wrote, the country alcohol is taboo, but on the black market you can buy. They say the beer is served in Chinese restaurants. Bottle of whiskey - from 100 dollars. All local entertainment - it is to sit on the waterfront, drink coffee with ginger per pound (5 rubles) and play cards. And they play for money, and leave pay at the agreed place, so as not burnt. Bribe the police take cards mobile payment. In general, an ordinary country.
I almost forgot, gasoline in Sudan worth 6 rubles per liter. Like this!