
As I climbed the highest mountain in Europe
Ilya bottom tells of his conquest of Mount Elbrus.

Here is an elderly woman with flabby arms and a cane to help feet. And here I go - young, happy and blue moccasins. And what is the actual difference?
It happened unexpectedly, that has already given a lot of chances for fun and success. I was always attracted to what is accompanied by unpredictability, it adds to the whole adrenaline. So this time round camp on Elbrus was booked 4 days after I found out that this even exists.
Elbrus Why, you ask? Well, you do not ask. And I do not care to answer. Our lives are measured by density, quantity and quality of its constituent events. And where there are more events on the highest mountain in Europe or Turkey?
Then there is a reasonable question, why the mountains, not white water rafting or diving? Then I stepped forward long naive childhood dream - to touch the clouds. When I was young and bright, flying on an airplane, I always wanted to touch the clouds, jump into them, to taste. Elbrus in the plan meets all the requirements.
So, nice collection, preparation, romance Departure, all the cases. Then Airport, Oscar Wilde, tasty ham on the plane, Moscow, McDuck, Kislovodsk, UAZ, exit to the foot of Elbrus, 2000 meters above sea level, the first camp. We had accumulated 5 people, it is our group, controlled by a single guide. In the camp we had time to notice the Germans and Spaniards.
The first step after the placement was decided to explore the area, koi were only a mountain passes, mineral springs, waterfalls and other Caucasian unearthly beauty, which is on the territory of Kabardino-Balkaria. There were many long and hard, stammering every 50 meters, so that his feet did not see absolutely no desire. A separate book, I would devote UAZ, where we went to the camp. He climbed up on such obstacles that we all head over heels rolling around the cabin, the side windows are 20 cm from the ground, and Defender and Gelendvagen sucked ... lollipops and asked tityu. Is the rim that the middle mountains - our way:

And here is the king of the mountains, the Emperor of the steppes, hyena ergonomics:

So, the neighborhood. I am not far from being a couch potato, there are times on the beautiful nature and seen its wonders, but then their concentration just rolls beyond reasonable limits, in the head fireworks and celebrations. Take pictures, I particularly did not have time and sometimes forgot about the camera at all, but still a couple of hundreds of two-dimensional images could capture:




Here is the same water from the green bottle. seltzer:

A lot of waterfalls


Your rebellious under one of them:

According to rumors, house president of Kabardino-Balkaria.

There were a lot back in the evening:

And here is the Elbrus, our goal.

Immediately after this walk was eliminated from group 2 human. Yes, we have been a lot, they had a cough, shortness of breath and other healthy habit of bursting the body, but it is, compared to what it was then - an easy walk in the park by the handle with my dad, so they did the right thing.
Next it was overnight. I like to toss and turn in my sleep, and sleep is very sensitive, so a sleeping bag, a wooden bed without a mattress and the cool night air in conjunction with snoring (at best) neighbors gave me an unforgettable pleasure of sleep. I slept well, got up very first.
On the second day was planned acclimatization at 3,800 meters, there is a second, assault camp. Just getting to this day is called, because it was planned to throw in the assault camp maximum personal belongings. So we did. Breakfast, taxes, exit. On the way back unearthly views, clean air, mountain and river's sleep neighbors.

Your rebellious against the backdrop of Mount Elbrus. I'm sorry, I forgot to put under his palm.

photograph was not on the road of time, so took a short video after the rise on one of the sites:
Download video
Next, a couple of hours up and there appeared look like this:

has thrown things went down, tired, sleep was easier. The next day we was coming on the same route, this time with an overnight stay in the assault camp. Oddly enough, we have got to get a lot faster and easier than the first time. Next was a plan: spend the night at 3800 (assault camp), the next day acclimatization to the rocks Lenz 4600.
In general, settled in the assault camp, my companions of sleep damage satellites me this time were the Germans. 7 people. 7! In order not to go crazy, to sleep, I began to treat with irony. Here are our mountain huts:

slept again with difficulty, plus the entire air was cold and breathing through a small opening of a sleeping bag was becoming uncomfortable. Therefore, dozing. Dozing under the German-Russian brass band. Never before in our world, and the Germans did not rehearse more harmonious than that night.
"I woke up," cold, dressed, had breakfast, began to gather in the acclimatization. By the way, fed us there is excellent: in the morning porridge, lunch in the first or second evening as + dry rations and kompotik (which, incidentally, did not prevent me after going once in 10 steps to pull the jeans). So, assault Lenz rocks. The scheme is as follows: 4600 and output to descend back. "Just nothing," - I thought, 800 meters seemed to me too short a distance, and I went happily gather at the output:
"Hip-hop, labor Style is always with me, from the cradle fry heifers microphone - a father.
Clean style tiger vzmetnuv to heaven, Oh, rap, I'll give you life, and a flock of black crows can not hurt me, miserable fake throwing off down cant score on high ":

thermal underwear, pants, sunglasses, windbreaker, insurance, boots, crampons. We push off upward. At first everything was fine, went smoothly without interruptions. So we went 3 hours and then the body began to feel the height, after each step, wanted to rest, but there is still an hour away.
"Do not worry" - I thought, and went on to have a voltage. Stop and rest. It was then that I felt all of what has warned. Suddenly dizzy, and on top of the brain put several bags of potatoes + pain in the fingers and ladyshkah. What I pulled the shoes, I realized only after the descent. I practiced many sports and a sense of exhaustion I was familiar with, so he took himself in hand, went further. To the rocks Lenz I still came.
On arrival at the camp was planned dinner, but immediately after the descent of all diseases have increased and added to them nausea, so drinking water, I went to sleep. I woke up with heaviness in the head, but without the dizziness and nausea, which is already happy. This whim of the body I have not written off fatigue. Physical activity plus sleep deprivation, in my opinion, should have given it such an effect. As it turned out, I was wrong.
Then came the day of rest and out into the night to the top of Mount Elbrus. Day holiday I spent reading books, vyproshennyh have guides and balancing stones (rather amusing little business, by the way), so brag a product of his patience:

Going to bed that day, I felt a little nervous trembling. After all that, for what I came here to start a few hours later. He fell asleep immediately, but slept well. Our beginning of rise was scheduled for 2 am Wake up the Germans - for an hour. But as the Germans woke up at 12, I got along with them. Then came a hearty breakfast and taxes. In my head, throughout the training, my head is spinning a line from a song Smokey Mo - "I want this day was at the limit, as a child forgotten one in the candy department," that I drove myself, this created courage.
And so, the generation II, a time T, h X, we have the foot, assembled and ready. Moved upwards. We went in conjunction 3 people and a guide. Insurance held by each of us, in case someone falls into the crack, the rest had gripped cats in the snow that has fallen has not pulled the others and did not crash itself.
By the way, look into one of the cracks with a flashlight, the bottom of it I have not seen. To his misfortune, immediately after the start of rise I saw a track from the rescue sled, then someone has recently lowered MChSovtsy. Silke has not given the thought to develop further.
Further along the way met a group of Spaniards who came just before us, but walked towards us. One of them started vomiting and the whole group turned. On top of all, the first hour of walking we were accompanied by the crackle of ice beneath his feet, and I thought as much as possible to focus on the steps.
this time before the zlapoluchnyh rocks Lenz (4600 m) I got no problems, but tired and sweaty. After them came another steep section of rise, and we was coming long-awaited vacation in a little skewed iron closet, it is unclear how to get here.
By the time the cold is already feeling strong enough, plus everything began to blow strong winds. I sat in the closet, and took tea almost fainted. All the ills which I suffered the day before, came back. Only a terrible headache, dizziness and nausea was added shivering from the cold.
Upper thermal underwear I did not have, and stop sweating the body immediately began to freeze. I really wanted to stay in the closet and wait for help, but this option is not possible for two reasons. Help appeared in time to no earlier than 4 hours, and at this time in this tattered, full of snow closet I would just froze. And if next to a helicopter that took me down, I'd still did not use it, because I knew it was just fearful emotions. The only solution that I found at the time - is to stop talking. First, reduce retching, and secondly, reduces the chances of the guide spill the beans about his condition. I went on. The fact that there is still a 4:00 walk up and down 5:00 I tried not to think. Additionally, in the way all the ills pretuplyalis - body focused on walking.
And anyway, I caught myself thinking that I was no difference, I'll go back, and with what consequences will come back down. Tuberculosis and meningitis seemed to be something small and paltry in comparison with the conquest of the summit. By the way, both in life and in business, I am guided by this principle, the means - it's something minor, floating, complementary and strongly dependent on the emotions, as opposed to the goal.
The higher we climbed, the more strongly felt the altitude. "Justify!" - require the body in the brain. But the brain at this time was confused and depressed. All aklimatizatsionnym problems added the problem of lack of oxygen. It becomes difficult to go, and even after surgery for unfastening and fastening jackets needed rest, and march without interruption is not possible.
Then I chose for myself the following tactics: 50 steps - stop - 30 breaths - 50 steps. Heart pounding in rhythm reperskih first bit, then moved to a dram'n'bass by passing a surge in weighty. So I took another 3-4 hours and left for the final section - the dome of Mount Elbrus.
By the time the crack no longer appear on our way and we were going without insurance, which allowed to keep up with the group, giving yourself time for a break. The dome we came together with a difference of 20 minutes. To the top of a half-hour walk. But the beginning of a strong wind and poryvysty guide began to doubt the safety of climbing. It was finally decided to go, and I'm realizing that there is a risk not to reach the top, I began to invest all the remaining power in every step. But unlike the rest of the group, which was traversed (ie, was not dully up and zigzagged with a gradual climb), I stupidly went up. Eventually, after an hour of rise we are guided significantly detached from the rest of the group.
The most hurtful mountain illusion - an illusion of intimacy. You visually understand that to go to a certain point not very long, but in fact it turns out that no matter how much you went, and the point is not thinking approach. So I buried his eyes in the legs and so went for a long time, trying not to raise their heads so as not to upset yourself and do not lose heart.
Stopping once to rest, I looked at the top, which was not so far away and I have made out a strong laughter. I laughed because all for what I tried, worried, went to the toilet ice, endured snoring, it was before my eyes. But when the top was just a little bit, the guide stopped me and demanded a turn. Weather did not allow to go further.
"But here's the tip" - I laughed, and in return heard that before her half an hour away and the wind increases. I thought it was absurd, and I asked the tour guide not to waste time on me, and the rest of the group to go to deploy until I rest. The guide began to descend, and I, like a dog, leaning half the weight in his arms, holding a stick and pulled struggling forward.
He was shouting, I said something, but the mind was already on top. I clearly recognized that at that time was at the edge of their physical abilities, and then another long these parts moved apart, getting to the top. After half an hour of torture and puffing I stepped onto a plane. Plane. My favorite word since. I picked up! Force was not, but I am well aware of everything and went to the edge to make a final climactic photo. In order to reach the edge needed to walk a bit on the rocks. Cats so I would not take off, so I went there. A little, a strong wind still knocked me off my feet and I fell on the stones. While lying down, I thought it was a decent price for opposing the orders of the guide :) photo, by the way, I still did:

So the overall plan with the highest in Europe in terms of the Earth:

On the descent we spent 5 hours in total, having kept within in 14 hours of walking. The descent was too difficult and I caught up with the group only at the very end, but I was already spitting.
Iznemozhdennoe, fatigue, headache and calluses on his feet does not mean anything at the moment. On the way back to the base camp, we went to the so-called "mushroom" stones illogical shape formed due to weathering over loose rocks. At that moment, when we visited the place, it was a thick fog, from this impression complete fiction. No one would have to be determined exactly the planet on which it is located:



In Kabardino-Balkaria, wonderful nature, beautiful mountain area, a lot of the earth's wonders are concentrated there, but the main object of observation - you yourself. Physically and morally - it was the hardest thing I've ever tested, and I was glad that I passed the test.
Now I feel that after the of rise has qualitatively changed. Compared with Elbrus, all the current urban problems seem pitiful little thing, and my will can cover any other peaks, because there is no higher :) Same goes for my physical development, it seems that the limits it does not exist. Speaking of children's dreams. Clouds I still touched and even tasted - the usual cold air :) But on the other hand another dream is checked and it is time to invent new ones.
As I have said, our age, and life is not measured in hours or years, and the number of events per unit of time. It does not matter whether it is good or bad events in the mind or in reality they occur - this is the life - that between birth and death. And most importantly, this moment is missed.
So live, or otherwise than in your youth Unlike crutch decrepit old grandmother?